Monday 16 December 2013

Barbell Exercises and Variations

Hi all,

This video demonstrates how little equipment is needed in developing sound exercise programming and performing specific movements pertaining to your sport. A lack of equipment also encourages creativity and excitability throughout exercise selection.




These barbell exercises are seen within numerous sporting activities requiring explosively powerful movements as seen in cycling and BMX (pushing and pulling, rotation and stability), rugby league and rugby union (tackling and defending) and tennis (backhand where a large pulling and rotational force is required).

Alternatives include: Standing rotational pulls, high or low rotational movements, dragging loaded bar, dead lifts, squats, lunges, rows, presses, throws, dynamic loading patterns, unilateral and bilateral exercises.

In terms of alternative movements the options are endless, think about the movements required in your sporting environment and let us know of further variations.

Mitch

Monday 9 December 2013

Dynamical, Free Flowing Movement

Hi everyone,

I found this video containing a few interesting exercises and thought I'd share. What I enjoy about the exercise selection is the creativity shown, breaking the 'norm' or mundane activities you may see in a typical gym program. The exercise selection is holistic in approach, focusing on free flowing dynamical movement with an emphasis placed on power development (e.g. hip drive and rotation to maintain momentum), stability and range of motion (more specifically within the hips and shoulders).

The video, when observed, seems to take inspiration from mixed martial arts, with a lot of ground work, throwing, punching and explosive pushing. This leads to another great aspect of the exercise selection, the applicability to other sporting disciplines due to similarities in movements. I encourage you to see this video for yourself, and try to determine the specific benefits these exercises may elicit in your sporting environment i.e. what are these exercises designed to do? As always any questions regarding specifics, please let me know.




Mitch

Monday 21 October 2013

Eccentric Contractions and Performance Development

The eccentric contraction is termed as the lengthening of a muscle under tension from a force greater than the muscle can promote - the opposite of a concentric contraction (muscle shortening whilst generating a force exceeding load). An example can be seen in a squatting movement, the 'down phase' representing an eccentric and the 'up phase' a concentric contraction of the muscles comprising the legs (gluteals, quads, hamstrings, calves).

The muscles are stronger throughout an eccentric contraction (approximately 30-40%). As a result exercises focused on enhancing eccentric contractions of a muscle or group of muscles will result in improved stability and strength of joints and tissues, ameliorate amortisation (loading/landing ability) and quickening of contraction speed and contraction change over. Furthermore, eccentric exercises are often utilised as an overload technique throughout programming to create new benchmarks. Let's think of the eccentric contraction as an effort to reduce injury risk, or a braking force throughout activity and an essential component in enhancing sporting performance.

Below are a few videos that focus on eccentric training and may be evident throughout your own programs. In the first video Anthony's focus is primarily on athlete development whilst the later video is on hamstring rehabilitation, note the emphasis on slower eccentric movements.






-Mitch


Tuesday 15 October 2013

Muscle Activation and Performance

Muscular recruitment/activation is a requirement of everyday activity and exercise, in short, the muscles of the body are 'ordered' by the nerves to contract in turn creating locomotion. 'Ideal' muscle activation via the nerves during sporting activity aids in enhancing contractile strength and speed as well as creation of momentum, efficiently producing the desired movement (e.g. squatting, running and jumping). This 'ideal' activation of the muscles is essentially sequential activation of specific muscles groups, which streamlines performance of an exercise, optimising performance. If the recruitment order is out of sequence, the quality of muscle contraction and momentum transferal may be diminished, limiting performance.

Activation exercises benefit all athletes basically 'waking up' the muscles, making them work when they should. Below I have compiled a few videos that would benefit some specific movements in regards to improving performance throughout activity.


Activation Exercises

Gluteal Activation


VMO Activation

-Mitch

Monday 7 October 2013

Alpinism: Ueli Steck

Alpinism is essentially climbing to the highest point of a mountain in the shortest possible time frame. It is definitely what I would deem an extreme sport, due not only to the physiological aspects and risk involved traversing a surface, but also the emotional and mental strength required to succeed. Rock, snow and ice surfaces impede fast, fluid movement, as a result extensive training involving body weight exercise and plyometrics are essential with additional attention to climbing, skiing and distance running (hills, uneven and unstable surfaces) attains the most beneficial results for the Alpinist. The work exhibited by an Alpinist echoes the efforts of a rock climber discussed in the last blog, with a few exceptions, speed and cardiovascular endurance required is of higher demand (due to higher summits and time minimalism), extreme weather conditions and limited oxygen available lessen the efforts of the climber and increase the associated risks.

The Swiss Machine
Training and Preparation

Training for Everest

Ueli Steck is one of the more pronounced athletes within this field, some recent achievements include: Mount Everest (8848 meter summit, no oxygen, 18.05.12), Cho Oyu (8201 meter summit, 05.05.11), Shisha Pangma/south face (8027 meter summit, solo, 10 hours 30 minutes, 17.04.11) and Sol/Droite north face (2 hours 8 minutes, previous record held by Christophe Profit in 2 hours 30 minutes). The videos above detail Alpinism and Steck's preparation and training, for a detailed description of his routine click here (note the extended stretching/recovery, large focus on cardiovascular endurance and time spent with mental rehearsal). If you missed last weeks blog on climbing, click here, for more information on Ueli Steck click here.


Thanks for reading,
Mitch

Monday 30 September 2013

Rock Climbing: Physiological Demands and Training

Hi Everyone,

Rock climbing requires a tremendous amount of body weight strength in order to climb uneven often near impossible rock faces. The ability to hold a position close to the rock surfaces is essential to maintain an even balance and ultimately traverse a rock face. This is a result of extensive strength and endurance training of the fingers and forearms, upper body pulling, core and legs. Flexibility also plays a major role in order to contort the body into positions to navigate the rock surface.


I have come across a few interesting videos about rock climbing and training which you may find interesting involving training and some interesting information regarding the physiological demands placed on rock climbers.


For more information on rock climbing why not check out Anthony's previous blog on rock climbing or alternatively send us a message on:
www.innovatessc.com.au

-Mitch

Tuesday 24 September 2013

Pelvic Mobility and Sporting Performance

Hi All,

Pelvic mobility is of major importance for all sporting activities, however movements requiring increased hip rotation, extension and maintenance of power produced via the legs demand a larger range of motion (ROM) of the hips (e.g. hitting and throwing movements).




An increase in ROM of the hips allows an enhancement of power production. Take a tennis player for example, as discussed in previous blogs, the power generated in a movement generally originates from the legs via a ground reaction force, this force radiates up the legs and body towards the racket head. The hips are a medium of sorts which aid in delivery the momentum created by the legs, if the hips cannot rotate/extend efficiently, the power created is minimalised or lost throughout the racket swing and the overall performance is diminished. The leg power generated is also exacerbated via the stretch shortening cycle of the muscles in the hips, a larger ROM may equate to an improved muscular elastic response.





Each picture contains a differing stretch video specific for pelvic mobility which can aid in performance enhancement. Have a look and let us know what you think.




Thanks,
Mitch

Wednesday 18 September 2013

Cycling Stretching and Strengthening Routine

Hi everyone,

I have come across this video involving a specific cycling stretching and strengthening routine, which I thought may interest our readers.




There are a range of stretching exercises shown (e.g. hip flexors and hamstrings), all of which allow enhanced mobility throughout movement and assist in attaining an ideal or improved position when riding on the bike.

The strengthening exercises exhibited also attribute to enhanced strength and power development as well as enhanced stability. Some examples include:
  • The 'Hamstring Push Up' which involves hamstring activation, but also places a large emphasis on the glutes, the primary mover in hip extension. An increase in gluteal activation will greatly increase the leg drive for a cyclist.
  • The 'Finish Chair' (pictured above) is also a great exercise for a cyclist in activation of the core and increase stability during cycling. This exercise creates what we call postural awareness (note the nice straight back/thoracic extension in a compromising load bearing position) in a cyclist, allowing for a quicker transition to an optimal riding position when seated on the bike.
If you have any questions or concerns, let us know

Mitch

Monday 9 September 2013

Motocross/Bicycle Specific Program

Hi All,

The following video offers a brief, detailed description of a variety of Motocross specific exercises,. These movements can be transferable to other cycling sports such as BMX or Mountain bike riding.

Exercise 1.) The power clean is a great exercise for development of power and momentum. If an athlete is able to forcefully move both body weight and an external object in an explosive manner when required, their overall control of a bike will improve. The practice of a power clean exercise will also reinforce quick, corrective techniques in body placement during riding. Other benefits include: improving performance of gate starts, cornering, landing and maneuvering about obstacles, aiding in overall performance.

Exercise 2.) Jumping lunges with a medicine ball twist is a great exercise for cornering. It enhances one's ability to react and adapt to a change in body position, shifting their body accordingly to corner. The strength exhibited in both legs (unilateral exercise) allows more control over the bike (cornering and starts) and will aid in eccentric strength (load absorption).

Exercise 3.) Box jumps (blast jumps) improve an athletes ability to be able to absorb load during riding, an essential skill during landing (big jumps or whoops) to maintain momentum and control over the bike whilst riding, minimising deceleration and injury risk.

Exercise 4.) An object jump (motorcycle) with a soft landing as also enhances the athletes ability to absorb load and develop and maintain power, similar to the above exercises. Essential in riding performance.

Exercise 5.) Drop push ups also aid in eccentric strength of the upper body, absorbing load to again maintain control of the cycle and decrease the likelihood of injury (jarring occurring as a result of whoops or unexpected holes or bumps on the road) and maintain riding momentum.




I would like to extend an invitation to everyone reading, if you have any other exercises you feel would benefit a motocross, BMX or mountain bike rider, let us know in the comments. If you have any questions let use know.

As always, thanks for reading,

Mitch

Monday 2 September 2013

Golf Specific Exercises

Hi Everyone,

I have had a few questions regarding specific exercises focused on improving golf performance. A golf swing utilises a combination of movements to achieve optimal ball displacement, although seemingly simple, the movements involved become more complex due to the number of movements and coordination required in the swing. Of major importance throughout a golf swing is the loading or coiling the body (weight transferal, creating momentum) and hip drive and rotation (power/momentum enhancement). 




Accurately replicating a sporting movement/requirement during a specific sporting program is a must for progression and effective transferal of performance to a sporting environment. As mentioned during the video, lateral bounding will aid in power development and stabilisation of the legs. This bounding motion emphasises body loading, improving the stretch reflex of the muscles leading to further power development and ultimately transferring to an increase in ball projection.

When observing a golf swing, you may notice the front swing begins with a hip drive followed by a downward projection of the arms. Hip rotation and extension (hip drive) is of high importance when creating an exercise program for golf as the movements generate a majority of the power utilised throughout a swing. The over the shoulder medicine ball throw and medicine ball throw down are great exercises that reinforce the importance of hip rotation and extension, with the later also mimicking the downwards drive of the arms. Further exercises that replicate specific golf movements may enhance a players ability to perform on any given sporting occasion.

If you have any questions let us know in the comments,

Mitch

Sunday 1 September 2013

Balance and Training

Hi Everyone,

Balance training is an essential part of training for any athlete, it activates the neural pathways within the body, stimulating the muscles, which can lead to enhanced strength and stability of the surrounding joints and improved proprioception (awareness of the body in space). These improvements equate to more efficient movement throughout sporting performance, improve rehabilitation and limit the chances of injury.

The videos below details various balance exercises utilising an Indo Board. These exercises are suitable for a variety of athletes, sports may include: any boarding sport (surfing, skateboarding, wakeboarding), golf, netball, cricket and tennis - all due in part to the loads placed upon the ankles and the increased requirement for stability. If you have limited access to equipment, be creative and use what's available (e.g. bosu ball (right side up or upside down), a medicine ball, swiss balls or even a towel or mat folded may suffice). try to utilise both unilateral and bilateral movements in your balance training, if it's too easy try closing your eyes...






If you have any questions let us know,

Thanks,

Mitch

Monday 19 August 2013

Centre of Gravity and Base of Support

The centre of gravity (COG) is an imaginary point through which gravity acts on an object, it is the point where the entire weight of the body is concentrated (point of balance). A shift of the segments or limbs of the body results in movement of COG.

The base of support (BOS) is the area beneath and between the points of ground contact of an object (i.e. foot contact). The BOS is necessary in creating balance, a wider stance and or staggered/split stance enhances stability whilst a narrow BOS attributes to instability (see COG and BOS).

The distance between the COG and BOS is of high importance in retaining stability, the closer they are, the more balanced an object becomes with instability being exacerbated with larger distances (Video Description).


Wherever the COG is concentrated also aids in trajectory of an object, the body will follow the direction of the COG when a force is applied. The link to the right features a prime example of Usain Bolt and his sprinting stance upon starting a race. Note his COG out in front of him, this leaning aids in propulsion of his body.





The above points explain why when observing a professional sporting activity; the players usually adopt a lower COG in a widened or staggered stance (e.g. low driving movement for a tackle in Rugby Union). These movements are important to create stability during activity to (i.e. lessen chances of being knocked down) and improve the efficiency of movement (i.e. efficiency in weight transfer and kinetic chain) (see link to the left). Innovate specialises in creating exercise programming to help develop these strength and stability attributes for athletes of all levels in preparation for competition and enhanced performance.




References:
  • McGuiness P.M. Biomechanics of Sport and Exercise, Second Edition, 2005. Centre of Gravity Pages 129-130, Centre of Gravity and Performance Page 135 and Centre of Gravity and Stability Pages 137-140.
Thanks,


Mitch

Sunday 11 August 2013

Tennis and Nutrition

Everyone needs good nutrition, bearing in mind also that everyone is an individual, and as a result requirements for specific nutrients vary greatly. For an athlete, optimal performance is of the utmost importance and without adequate nutrition, success may dwindle.




A tennis player requires enough energy to sustain repeated moderate to maximal intensity activity (e.g. sprinting and jumping) with intermittent often limited rest periods to accommodating optimal performance. The following links within the references detail macronutrient, micronutrient and fluid roles and consumption regarding a tennis player.

If you’re in need of further nutritional information, contact Anthony Webb to arrange an appointment with Innovate Nutritional consultant Dr Nenad Naumovski.

-Mitch

References
  • Love P. Tennis Nutrition Facts. International Tennis Federation. Coaching and Sport Science Review, 2008, Volume 15, Issue 1, Pages 21 – 23.
  • Love P. Increasing appropriate Fluid Intake for Tennis. International Tennis Federation. Coaching and Sport Science Review, 2008, Volume 15, Issue 46, Page 15.

Sunday 30 June 2013

The Stretch Shortening Cycle

The Stretch Shortening Cycle (SSC), also known as the myotatic reflex, is the process of muscle stretching directly followed by shortening of the muscle. These rapidly occurring contractions create an enhancement of the elastic characteristics of the muscles equating to a more forceful concentric contraction. The elastic characteristics of muscles are similar to that of a rubber band, what happens when you stretch a rubber band and let it go? The band rapidly snaps back, returning to its original shape. This process potentially improves power production, enhances momentum and minimises workloads during performance.

When a rubber band is held stretched, it loosens, losing shape and the reflex characteristics are minimised. This is similar to slow contractions of muscle, held stretched; they lose their stored energy, therefore diminishing power production. As a result an emphasis is placed upon speed of movement within power based movements.

An example of the stretch shortening cycle can be seen within the examples below, note the rapid activation of the muscles creating momentum:




Power clean

References

  • Hume, Keogh and Reid. The Role of Biomechanics in Maximising Distance and Accuracy of Golf Shot. Sports Medicine, 2005, Volume 35, Issue 5, Pages 429-449.
  • Laaksonen M.S, Kivela R, Kyrolainen H, Sipila S, Selanne H, Lautamaki R, Nuutila P, Knuuti J, Kalliokoski K.K and Kom P.V. Effects of Exhaustive Stretch-Shortening Cycle Exercise on Muscle Blood Flow During Exercise. Acta Physiologica, April 2006, Volume 186, Issue 4, Pages 261-271.
Thanks,
Mitch

Tennis Serve Analysis: Andy Roddick

The following video is a comparative serve analysis of Andy Roddick and other world class tennis players. The video examines the physiological characteristics required to streamline performance.





The key points of the video include:
  • Shoulder range of motion (external rotation ≥ 50°, Roddick = 130°) is of great importance, allowing larger generation of racquet speed.
  • Sequential activation of the muscle groups allows for efficient transfer of momentum resulting in enhanced racquet speed and maximal ball displacement.
  • Of importance is hip drive/rotation, a component of all mechanical throwing and hitting actions. Limited hip drive and rotation observes a noticeable decrease in performance due to the break in the kinetic chain.
Ignoring the product placement... and utilising this movement knowledge, we can then implement corrective techniques and sports specific programming to enhance these skills ultimately improving sports performance. Some examples could include PNF stretching to increase or maintain shoulder range of motion and a one armed low to high cable press accentuating leg drive and hip rotation.

Roddick has one of the fastest ever recorded serves because of highly efficient biomechanics, as evident in this video.





Thanks,
Mitch

Surfing and Strength and Conditioning

Over the last few years the Australian Sports Commission has increased support for Surfing Australia. As a result the emphasis on sports specific conditioning within surfing has improved with the help of world renowned strength and conditioning coach, Jeremy Sheppard.





The video below highlights:
  • The physiological demands placed upon surfers such as powerful production of movements and enhanced load absorption experienced in aerial manoeuvres and efficiency in paddling.
  • How to effectively train for practice and competition and the importance of prioritisation. Note the emphasis on plyometrics and power lifting which will aid in power production and application of amortisation.





These highlighted features of surfing are of focus within Innovate Sports Specific Conditioning. Our programs are all individualised, catering to each athletes requirements in order to improve the performance of our athletes.


Thanks,
Mitch

Ground Reaction Force

A Ground Reaction Force (GRF) is a force produced by the ground of equal and opposite direction to a force created by a body in contact with the ground. Various sporting events utilise this force to maintain and improve specific movements, by powerfully pushing an extremity into the ground an equally powerful reaction force is emitted. An example of this can be seen within a basketball dunk, the player loads their legs and forcefully push into the ground, this results in a GRF which ripples through the body, launching them into the air. The greater the leg push, the greater the GRF.






Michael Jordan vs Dominique Wilkins: Dunk Contest


References:


  • Hume, Keogh and Reid. The Role of Biomechanics in Maximising Distance and Accuracy of Golf Shot. Sports Medicine, 2005, Volume 35, Issue 5, Pages 429-449.
Thanks,
Mitch

Tuesday 25 June 2013

Review: Barefoot, Minimalist and Forefoot Running

In recent times there has been an increase in the popularity of barefoot or minimalist running amongst running communities. The common running shoe encourages a heel strike running style, it is specifically designed to slow the loading rates of the impact forces that occur during heel strike. Barefoot running has been used as a training method for years partially due to the belief that it improves performance and strengthens the intrinsic and extrinsic muscles of the foot.




Numerous studies have cited the following biomechanical effects in regards to barefoot, minimalist and forefoot running:
  • Decreased angles of the ankle resulting in a transition to a mid or forefoot strike, lessening heel strike frequency
  • Minimal ground contact time and loading forces when compared with shod running
  • A significantly lower stride length when running barefoot
  • Forefoot strike and barefoot running conditions have shown to reduce the absorption efficiency of the knees during running and increasing the power absorption demands upon the ankle
  • Strengthening of muscles and ligaments surround the foot and ankle


These results show that the increases in power absorption of the ankle may have injurious consequences of the foot and ankle including Achilles tendonitis and metatarsalgia. However, other sources debate metatarsalgia risk suggesting the limited impact transient during forefoot striking shows lower loading rates upon the metatarsals.




Care should be undertaken when adopting barefoot, minimalist or forefoot running styles in attempts to improve or reduce the stresses imposed during conventional heel strike running. Comparative studies and professionals alike suggest a slow and safe integration of barefoot, minimalist and forefoot running, suggesting softer surfaces initially and alternating barefoot and shod running to decrease the chances of injury.

References:
  • Calabro A. Foot Strike Patterns Study Ignites Barefoot Running Debate.
  • Utz-Maegher C, Nolty J and Holt L. Comparative Analysis of Barefoot and Shod Running.
  • Williams III D.S.B, Green D.H and Wurzinger B. Changes in Lower Extremity Movement and Power Absorption During Forefoot Striking and Barefoot Running
Thanks,
Mitch

Why Does An Athlete Need Strength & Conditioning?

Strength and conditioning (S&C) is a field that has come a long way in the last 10-20 years. The original perception of what a S&C coach did was simply based around making an athlete stronger for his sport and hopefully this also meant he had less injuries whilst playing. The current realm of what a S&C coach does is vast, where you will now find numerous professionals all over Australia with post graduate and even PHD qualifications in the field of S&C.

Science has been caught up and S&C is now a mix of somewhere between statistician / physiologist / coach / manager & mentor / biomechanist / scientist / therapist. The understanding of athlete requirements is now very well understood in the training environment, and S&C coaches can offer an array of skills to bring to the table for athlete development.

The following areas offer some insight of where a S&C coach can have an impact on an athlete’s long term development.

Planning & Management

A S&C coach is the master in planning what training and combinations of different types of training an athlete is capable of and should be doing at any single point in time and on a regular basis. A S&C coach uses statistical methods of measuring how much load / strain / monotony of training / volume is placed on an athlete’s body at any one time and prescribes an exact amount and type of training across all areas of development (skills / recovery / strength / recovery / etc). The S&C coach is often the individual responsible for managing all coaches and support staff to provide the best long term athletic plan for the athlete.     

Testing & Exercise Prescription

The S&C coach goes to great length to initially identify where an athlete has strengths and weaknesses, and maps out a plan of attack for the overall development for an athlete. The S&C coach has the ability to test an athlete in a range of ways involving postural screening / orthopedic assessment methods / load bearing ability / functional movement discrepancy / functional flexibility / sports specific stability / repetition maximum testing / body-weight ratio strength / functional movement awareness / motor skill function / activation patterning. With this information the S&C coach will prescribe an effective training program to the athlete, which initially matches their individual requirements and later meld this with the physical requirements of their chosen sport. An important note to add is that the S&C coach is aware of the rate and type of progression that is suitable for the athlete based on their age, training experience, maturity, injury status, current skill level, training volume, and functional capacity to perform the training program.

Functional Movements

When testing and prescribing exercises, a long-term fallacy is that a S&C coach writes a program to make the “muscles” stronger. This philosophy of training has long been replaced with the theory that “strength, power, flexibility, endurance, coordination, and speed” is about making the movements NOT muscles more effective, and that is how a S&C coach will prescribe exercise. For example ‘vertical jumping ability’ is a very important skill for a volleyball or basketball athlete, where the S&C coach will initially assess what part of the jumping or squatting movement has room for functional improvement, and instead of prescribing isolated strengthening exercises for the individual muscles, the muscles and tissues are considered to work as a system. Numerous muscles around numerous joints coordinate to function together to produce a reactive, flexible, fast, force producing movement, so prescription might be to perform a squatting pattern exercise like a jump squat or power clean, instead of a leg extension. If there are areas in the movement that are not efficient; tension in hip flexor muscles, tight hamstrings, or inactive gluteals, exercises and stretches for those functional discrepancies can also be prescribed for.     




What Does a S&C Program Involve?

Unbeknownst to most athletes you don’t have to train with heavy weights and lifting platforms to improve your functional ability. Many exercise programs I prescribe are to athletes where they can perform 90% of their program on their bedroom or hotel room floor! Many athletes have discrepancies where simple individually specific stretches can work wonders done with very minimal equipment, in a matter of a few minutes a day. The option is there to have a full sport specific functional program performing numerous times a week in a high performance centre, however certainly not a necessity.







The S&C coach is a vital part of any athlete’s program, where I have had the privilege to work with athletes as young as 8 and as old as 85, from a local club to world class standard improve their skills, in sports ranging from trampolining to lawn bowls to triathlon to tennis. Every athlete can benefit from an individual and sports specific functional assessment, and following this a tailored sports specific exercise prescription.

Cheers,
Anthony

Rock Climbing: Climber's Pump

Climbers get pumped! More specifically our forearms get rock hard and useless really quick. From a physiological point of view, what's going on?

When muscles are required to produce force, they fill with blood so that oxygen and nutrients can be delivered to them to produce movement (gripping). When this occurs over time, a muscle swells with blood (climber’s pump), however when it is working at a high rate over time it becomes fatigued, where excess lactic acid accumulates in the muscle and limits the muscles ability to contract and produce force at a consistent intense rate.




What can we do to reduce the pump, whilst on a climb?

Lactic acid is the by-product of intense work, which is like the bodies automatic internal alarm system to slow down. Lactic acid accumulates in the muscle tissue and limits the ability for a muscle to continually produce force at a high rate.

Like any endurance trained athlete, an advanced climber through long term experience will have a greater ability to work with a higher amount of lactic acid for longer, and also have the ability to remove and metabolize (breakdown) lactic acid at a faster rate.

The ability of a climber to use the body efficiently – with the upper body working in unison with the lower body will decrease the build up of a “forearm pump”. Using the leg muscles / movements efficiently to transfer load to the upper body when climbing will dramatically decrease the onset of a pump. Limiting continual strong gripping actions will also decrease the lactic acid build up and decrease the severity of a “pump”. Taking small rest breaks and limiting the amount of continual gripping will help to delay the effects of a “pump”. 

How can we train in the gym to stave off the pump out on the rock?

Like any athlete, a rock climber initially requires a sports specific functional assessment to determine how their individual body moves, and a postural screening to determine their movement tension patterns. With this information an individually prescribed exercise program will balance their body mechanics and provide appropriate functional movement patterns. These movement patterns will aid when climbing to effectively transfer load through the limbs to conserve energy, and minimize excessive upper body hanging and pulling positions. There isn’t really one miracle exercise to drastically decrease a “pump”; a holistic approach is the best long term.




Are there any nutritional tips or super foods for lessening the pump?

There is no properly proven nutritional method for lessening the “pump”, or lactic acid accumulation that you can consume in the short term for an event, or individual climbing session. A long term diet that is poor in vitamins / nutrients / carbohydrate / protein will definitely decrease a climber’s ability to endure on the wall, where fatigue will set in earlier than desired because the body is not fuelled properly. Long term endurance athletes, which is the athlete category that climber’s fit into, require an exceptionally good nutritional intake, to be sufficiently recovered from previous climbs, and to prepare the body for the next climb.
In general it is a good idea to top up your energy levels within half an hour before an extended climbing session with a fast absorbing carbohydrate snack. If energy levels are low the body fatigues quicker and the effects of fatigue will decrease performance.  
Hydration is also a major consideration before and during climbing. Even a small decrease in hydration levels can have a major impact on climbing performance. Small sips of water or sports drink before and during climbing training will assist in maintaining appropriate hydration levels.

Any tips for warm-up, cool down and rest period between sessions that will help reduce getting pumped?

Warm up and cool down are very important in getting the most out of each climb. Initially the climber’s body must be prepared for tackling a wall and there are a few stand out areas of focus for a warm up for the whole body including the forearms:
  • Decrease areas of tension, and balance postural mechanics in the body by completing individually specific stretches.
  • Then activate the right muscles ready for a climb; areas specific to climbers are the gluteals, quadriceps, and thoracic extensors particularly.
  • Specific areas of warm up and preparation for prevention of a “pump” are wrist flexors, which can be stretched. A climber can also use basic massage techniques on themselves to decrease tension in the forearms and wrists, prior to climbing which can cause a “pump” to occur a little earlier. Over time using these techniques of stretching and massaging will make a large difference to the onset of a “pump”.
During a climb as mentioned earlier the best way to prevent a “pump” is to limit the amount and degree of gripping actions, and maximize the use of the lower body with the upper body, a combination of improved technique, weight transferral, and strong body mechanics.

On completion of a climb, like any other athlete the climber will recover most effectively if they have an individually specific warm down routine. Body mechanics are individual and particular stretching and releasing techniques may not suit every climber. A combination of individual stretches and release techniques, icing and compression strategies, and nutrition and hydration will provide the optimal recovery to climb again soon.




Rest periods are essential for climbers. Rest must be sufficient enough to allow the body to recover effectively. The forearms are a major area of tension, due to the time they spend under working load. A beginner climber should leave a break between their climbing days (example: climbing Monday / Wednesday / Friday) to give the tension areas time to recover. An advanced climber may be able to climb up to multiple times per day, however they will have superior body mechanics decreasing the tension on their forearms during a climb, and will have a between-session strategy in place which is well practiced to allow for fast recovery.

Cheers,
Anthony

Motocross Sport Specific Conditioning

Hi Everyone,

Motocross is an awesome sport where the rider has to have a huge power to weight ratio. This allows efficient control of the bike and improves their ability to quickly shift their body weight around the bike.




In this relatively simple exercise progression, it is easy to see how sports specific exercises can improve a rider’s movements to improve sports performance.


Cheers,
Anthony