Climbers get pumped! More specifically our forearms get
rock hard and useless really quick. From a physiological point of view, what's
going on?
When muscles
are required to produce force, they fill with blood so that oxygen and
nutrients can be delivered to them to produce movement (gripping). When this
occurs over time, a muscle swells with blood (climber’s pump), however when it
is working at a high rate over time it becomes fatigued, where excess lactic
acid accumulates in the muscle and limits the muscles ability to contract and
produce force at a consistent intense rate.
What can we do to reduce the pump,
whilst on a climb?
Lactic
acid is the by-product of intense work, which is like the bodies automatic
internal alarm system to slow down. Lactic acid accumulates in the muscle
tissue and limits the ability for a muscle to continually produce force at a
high rate.
Like
any endurance trained athlete, an advanced climber through long term experience
will have a greater ability to work with a higher amount of lactic acid for
longer, and also have the ability to remove and metabolize (breakdown) lactic
acid at a faster rate.
The
ability of a climber to use the body efficiently – with the upper body working
in unison with the lower body will decrease the build up of a “forearm pump”.
Using the leg muscles / movements efficiently to transfer load to the upper
body when climbing will dramatically decrease the onset of a pump. Limiting
continual strong gripping actions will also decrease the lactic acid build up
and decrease the severity of a “pump”. Taking small rest breaks and limiting the amount of continual gripping will help to delay the effects of a
“pump”.
How can we train in the gym to stave
off the pump out on the rock?
Like
any athlete, a rock climber initially requires a sports specific functional
assessment to determine how their individual body moves, and a postural
screening to determine their movement tension patterns. With this information
an individually prescribed exercise program will balance their body mechanics
and provide appropriate functional movement patterns. These movement patterns
will aid when climbing to effectively transfer load through the limbs to
conserve energy, and minimize excessive upper body hanging and pulling
positions. There
isn’t really one miracle exercise to drastically decrease a “pump”; a holistic
approach is the best long term.
Are there any nutritional tips
or super foods for lessening the pump?
There is no
properly proven nutritional method for lessening the “pump”, or lactic acid
accumulation that you can consume in the short term for an event, or individual
climbing session. A long term diet that is poor in vitamins / nutrients /
carbohydrate / protein will definitely decrease a climber’s ability to endure
on the wall, where fatigue will set in earlier than desired because the body is
not fuelled properly. Long term endurance athletes, which is the athlete
category that climber’s fit into, require an exceptionally good nutritional
intake, to be sufficiently recovered from previous climbs, and to prepare the
body for the next climb.
In general it
is a good idea to top up your energy levels within half an hour before an
extended climbing session with a fast absorbing carbohydrate snack. If energy
levels are low the body fatigues quicker and the effects
of fatigue will decrease performance.
Hydration is
also a major consideration before and during climbing. Even a small decrease in
hydration levels can have a major impact on climbing performance. Small sips of
water or sports drink before and during climbing training will assist in
maintaining appropriate hydration levels.
Any tips for warm-up, cool down and
rest period between sessions that will help reduce getting pumped?
Warm up and cool down are
very important in getting the most out of each climb. Initially the climber’s
body must be prepared for tackling a wall and there are a few stand out areas
of focus for a warm up for the whole body including the forearms:
- Decrease
areas of tension, and balance postural mechanics in the body by completing
individually specific stretches.
- Then
activate the right muscles ready for a climb; areas specific to climbers are
the gluteals, quadriceps, and thoracic extensors particularly.
- Specific
areas of warm up and preparation for prevention of a “pump” are wrist flexors,
which can be stretched. A climber can also use basic massage techniques on
themselves to decrease tension in the forearms and wrists, prior to climbing
which can cause a “pump” to occur a little earlier. Over time using these
techniques of stretching and massaging will make a large difference to the
onset of a “pump”.
During
a climb as mentioned earlier the best way to prevent a “pump” is to limit the
amount and degree of gripping actions, and maximize the use of the lower body
with the upper body, a combination of improved technique, weight transferral,
and strong body mechanics.
On
completion of a climb, like any other athlete the climber will recover most
effectively if they have an individually specific warm down routine. Body
mechanics are individual and particular stretching and releasing techniques may
not suit every climber. A combination of individual stretches and release
techniques, icing and compression strategies, and nutrition and hydration will
provide the optimal recovery to climb again soon.
Rest
periods are essential for climbers. Rest must be sufficient enough to allow the
body to recover effectively. The forearms are a major area of tension, due to
the time they spend under working load. A beginner climber should leave a break
between their climbing days (example: climbing Monday / Wednesday / Friday) to
give the tension areas time to recover. An advanced climber may be able to
climb up to multiple times per day, however they will have superior body
mechanics decreasing the tension on their forearms during a climb, and will
have a between-session strategy in place which is well practiced to allow for
fast recovery.
Cheers,
Anthony
